Introduction: Itinerary Series

Travel is ninety percent anticipation and ten percent recollection. - Edward Strecter.

This will be my first entry in a series of ‘Itineraries’ that I will share on my blog.  Over the years, I have spent countless hours researching destinations in order to create the perfect trip for my husband, friends or family.  It is always a lot of work, but one of my favorite parts of travel.  In theory, it would sometimes be nice to just hop on a plane and wait to see what treasures we will find and experiences we will have.  If I was planning a year to wander the world, I might actually consider this option.  In reality, we always have a limited supply of time and money, so I want to make sure we make the most out of what we have.  I don’t want to waste time, searching for a place to stay or backtracking because we missed a major landmark or a beautiful piece of scenery.  I also like to avoid tension on the road, when we take a wrong turn ( which will inevitably happen anyway and always still turns out to be a good experience in the long run).  I don’t want to exchange words with my husband when neither of us understand the subway system or how to find a taxi in a foreign land.  So… I plan.  I google, I read forums, I stake out the travel section at our local book store.  I don’t stop until I have maps memorized, found places to stay that will enhance our cultural experience without breaking the bank and figured out the easiest way to get from point A to B.  Now that we are traveling with a child, the planning becomes even more intense.   I make sure that we can take a stroller everywhere we need to go, that there will be places to stop for diaper changes, meals and naps, and that there will be activities that she will enjoy as much as we do.  Then I ensure that there will be a way for us to continue our holiday after she has gone to bed that night by indulging in some good food and a regional bottle of wine.

I love this part of travel, the anticipation and planning, but realize that many people do not.  For that reason, I am going to start a series, that will detail past itineraries and include recommendations for traveling with children.  These are meant to be used as a guide when planning your trip, however, please keep in mind that some details may have changed since the time of writing.  I always suggest booking in advance and where possible, I will provide website addresses to do so.  Enjoy!

Travel to Addis Ababa showed me the shocking reality of HIV

In 2004, my husband and I as well as another couple found ourselves with 12 hours in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.  We were flying Ethiopian Airlines from Dar es Salaam to Frankfurt with this long stopover in between.  The airline provided a hotel room for us at the Hilton in downtown Addis, as well as 2 meals included at the hotel for the day which we thought was incredibly generous!  We were shuttled from the airport to the hotel on a large bus and there were two elderly gentlemen sitting behind us.  They were very distinguished looking men, of African descent speaking English with what sounded to me like British accents.  One reminded me of the actor, Sidney Poitier.  During the 15 minute ride to our hotel, I admit that I eavesdropped  on their conversation.  It went something like this (names of course are not the actual names used):

Gentleman #1: ” I saw poor Mrs. Smith last week.  She just lost her son last month.  He was going to school and planning to be a doctor. ”

Gentleman #2: ” Oh I’m sorry to hear that.  I was talking to Mr. Johnson.  He’s lost his daughter, a niece and two nephews in the last 6 months and his grandson is not doing to well.  He was getting along pretty well though. ( pause )  There’s a new community hall being built I hear. ”

Gentleman #1: ” Well isn’t that wonderful.  They’ll be able to use that.  How’s Mr. Wood doing, I haven’t heard from him in ages?”

Gentleman #2:  ” Not too bad.  They have 5 grandchildren that they are taking care of now.  Both of his daughters are gone but his son is still around to help out.”

The conversation continued like this for the rest of the ride to the hotel.  The cause of death of so many young people was never mentioned, nor did they seem shocked to hear the news of each of these families.  I don’t know what country they were traveling from, but I can only assume that it was one in Sub-Saharan Africa and that the loss of so many young lives was due to HIV/AIDS.  It was sobering to hear the number of people that these men knew that were impacted by the disease.  I’ve heard many horrifying statistics* about the prevalence of HIV in countries around the world however, this real life example put in perspective the impact this would have on individuals, families, societies, the workforce and the future.  There are countries that as of 2007  had more than 20% of their population between the ages of 15 and 49 infected with HIV.  Imagine the people you know in your life, and think about what would happen if 1 out of every 5 of those people was HIV positive with very little hope or money for treatment.  This is the reality that many are facing around the world.

Many on our flight, stayed at the Hilton for the day, but we were not going to miss out on this incredible opportunity to see a part of Ethiopia.  We set out on foot to visit the National Museum where we would visit with Lucy, our ancestor of 3.2 million years ago.  When we arrived we also found that the museum was featuring an exhibit called “Positive Lives”  which showed the life, strength, hope and courage of people living with HIV/AIDS.   The life size photograph exhibition depicted stories of lives of people living with HIV/AIDS around the world and was probably one of the most moving museum exhibits I’ve ever experienced.   Twice in one day, I was given a glimpse into the lives of the millions affected by this epidemic.

*The horrifying statistics I referred to above as taken from www.avert.org :

Sub-Saharan Africa is more heavily affected by HIV and AIDS than any other region of the world. An estimated 22 million people were living with HIV at the end of 2007 and approximately 1.9 million additional people were infected with HIV during that year. In just the past year, the AIDS epidemic in Africa has claimed the lives of an estimated 1.5 million people in this region. More than eleven million children have been orphaned by AIDS.¹

Europe: Eat Lavishly, Sleep in Your Car

We had been driving most of the day, waking up in a coastal town just outside of Nice, driving to Monaco, then continued on for a quick stop in Pisa.  As we drove into Monterosso al Mare, the first of five villages that made up Cinque Terre, Italy, we were surprised by the number of people and tourists in this small coastal town.  There were no parking spaces, so I ran in and out of a few buildings to try to find accommodation to no avail.  We decided we’d keep driving to the next town on this Italian Riviera, called Vernazza.  It was barely visible by sea but based on our guidebook it sounded like a quaint place to spend the night.  It seemed that it took hours to wind back up into the hills, then back down narrow roads with hairpin turns.  There were tiny goat paths visible from the road, leading (we presumed) to cove beaches below.  We saw wild boars, orange and lemon trees as well as beautiful coastal views.  As Vernazza finally came into view, the sun was starting to sit low in the sky.

by Rayced on Flickr

You cannot drive in the village as most of the cobblestone streets are too narrow to pass.  We went on foot in search of a room for the night but the only one available was $200 per night. At the time this was more than our entire budget for the day.  What were we going to do? It was almost dark, we had very little gas left and were unsure if we’d find a room in the next town, so we decided to give up and enjoy what little time we had in one of the most beautiful places we’d ever been.  We had a delicious pasta meal as we drank wine at a bistro table in a lamp lit courtyard.  We watched cats waiting for table scraps, observed the locals, lounging and laughing and talked until we couldn’t keep our eyes open any longer.  At that point we stumbled back to our car, put the seats back and slept in our Renault Twingo on the outskirts of Vernazza.

As it turns out, it was a really comfortable sleep.  The front seats went back to be flush with the back seats which also reclined.  We had a sheet and a sleeping bag as well as towels that we covered the windows with to prevent peering eyes.  When we crawled out in the morning, we realized that we had not been alone on the side of the road.  Other travelers were also appearing from their cars with bedhead.  And so it began, a series of nights spent in our car.  Once we realized how comfortable it was, it was really hard to resist.  We could eat lavishly, see all the sights and indulge in any other cultural experiences we wanted and were still coming in under budget if we decided to sleep in our car for the night.  From that point on, we would usually find a campground at least, so that we could use their bathroom and shower facilities, but it was still a great way to experience Europe.  Now that we will be traveling as a family, we would need a bit more room, but a small camper van or VW Westphalia could still be an option to keep in mind!

Dreaming of Street Meat

The world is full of tasty delights.  While sitting down to a meal in a nice restaurant can be a great way to end the day, there are lots of other options that are easier on the pocket book and sometimes end up being the food you remember most about a country.  In many places ” Fast-Food” doesn’t involve looking for the golden arches, it is available direct from a local entrepreneur and prepared fresh in front of you.  My husband and I , affectionately call this ” street meat ” because the first time we encountered it, we were terrified that it would make us sick.  It turns out however, that every time we have been sick while traveling, it was after eating at a nice restaurant.

There are of course some guidelines, you need to follow, to ensure that the food is safe for your family to eat.  Always be sure that meat products were properly stored.  Watch to see if it is removed from an ice chest and make sure it is cooked fresh in front of you and hasn’t been sitting out for a while.  When possible, bring your own mug or glass, because re-usable drinking cups may not be washed in safe or hot water.

The following is a list of some of the best street food I’ve enjoyed.  Whenever I get home from traveling, I always want to eat like this but it seems that the key to these regional specialties is the availability of fresh food which we don’t often have access to in North America.

1.  Fresh Fruit, Bangkok, Thailand.- Fresh pineapple and melons on ice are peddled around in glass carts and sold on street corners.

2.  Corn over charcoal- Chaing Mai, Thailand.

3.  Donairs, Halifax, Canada- Atlantic Canadian version like the usual doner kebab, but uses a slightly sweet milk-based garlic sauce and tomatoes/onions. It should be very soaked and sloppy when served.

4.  Grilled mystery meat on any street corner in Asia.

5.  Fresh Seafood on the beach in Oualidia, Morocco.- The fisherman will come around to take your order then set up a BBQ and grill it right in front of you. Oysters are also on this impromptu menu if you are so inclined.

6.  Orange Juice in Djamaa El Fna, Marrakesh- freshly squeezed but I recommend your own glass.

7.  Red Tea Djamaa El Fna, Marrakesh.

8.  Mint Tea, Fez, Morocco.- Made with green tea and fresh mint leaves steeped in you own tea pot with lots of sugar and poured using a special technique into what look like large shot glasses.

9.  Cheese, bread and sausages-Portugal, Spain, France and Italy- A staple found in any market, bakery etc.

10. Gyros,  Corfu, Greece.  - Consisting of meat (typically lamb and/or beef), tomato, onion, and tzatziki sauce, and is served in pita bread.

To Conquer: Definitions explored at Ayer's Rock

“One see’s great things from the valley; only small things from the peak.”- G.K. Chesterton.

It seems that it is human nature to have a desire to conquer.  Throughout history, civilizations have tried to conquer each other with a  resulting flag plunged into the earth ( or the moon ) to show to the rest of the world that they have indeed claimed title to a distinct area of soil.  As individuals we strive to prove that we have the ability to overcome the insurmountable and accomplish various physical, intellectual or emotional feats.  As travelers, we have a burning need to get stamp after stamp in our passport and cross off the forever growing list of sights to see and adventures to experience.  So with this innate ambition in mind, it is shocking to find out that after traveling to one of the most remote areas of the world, you may not be able to complete one of those items on your list.

When I was planning our trip to Australia in 2001, climbing Uluru (Ayer’s Rock), was one of the things we were most excited to do.  When you read about Australia, it is the image that you most often see, next to the Opera House in Sydney, koala bears and kangaroos.  Therefore all of the above automatically become a must-see on your list.  My guidebook contained a little sidebar expressing the fact that the aboriginal people of Australia prefer that you do not climb Uluru (the aboriginal name), however there was also a large section explaining the details of the climb.  There was a small knot that formed in the pit of my stomach when I read the sidebar, but I managed to push that back deeper into my subconscious and continued to plan our climb.  When we arrived in Alice Springs and hopped on our bus to Ayer’s Rock, the tour guide explained to us again the wishes of the aboriginal people.  He told us that there are two reasons they ask you not to climb:

1. The climbing route is a sacred path of spiritual significance that is only taken by few Aboriginal men on special occasions.
2. People have been hurt and people have died when climbing Ayers Rock. The traditional owners feel responsible for these accidents.

Courtesy of Melalouise on Flickr

Oh no!  That knot in my stomach was back but much stronger than before.  I was starting to have an internal conflict between the part of my brain that seeks to do no wrong and the part of my brain that needs to “conquer”.  I didn’t want to blatently ignore the wishes of another culture, after all, part of the travel experience is learning about other cultures and hopefully developing a sense of respect for our differences.  On the other hand, I wanted to climb so badly!  I wanted to prove that I could reach the top.  I wanted to be able to say that I did it.  I wanted to experience all that there was to experience.

As our bus pulled up to the park entrance, I watched tourist after tourist making their way, like ants up the worn path that leads to the top of the rock.  Inside I whined to that other part of my brain, ” but they are all doing it!”.  As I walked up to the base, I knew that I should respect the wishes of the aboriginal people but I was still unsure which path my legs were going to take.  “This is your one and only chance” they were screaming.  But as we passed the starting point, my legs started to relax and the knot in my stomach started to go away.  The walk around the base of Uluru was stunningly beautiful, peaceful and slowly started to give me that sense of accomplishment.  I had conquered after all.  My soul had won the battle against my ego, and relieved me of the guilt I would have experienced had I made a different decision.  Instead I enjoyed an invigorating walk, took some colorful pictures and enjoyed the company of my husband as we took in the scenery.

Today, I looked up the meaning of Conquer in the Merrium-Webster dictionary and interestingly there were two definitions with significance:

1. to gain mastery over or win by overcoming obstacles or opposition <conquered the mountain OR

2. to overcome by mental or moral power

© Lisa Woodill and Storytime @ My Little Travel Bug, 2008. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Lisa Woodill and Storytime @ My Little Travel Bug with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

Meals to Remember- The Best Food in the World

During this festive season, I’ve been doing a lot of eating and it seems that food begets food.  The more I eat, the more I think about what my next culinary delight is going to be, and so I have been reflecting on some of the best meals I’ve ever had and whether or not I could re-create them.  This is unlikely since, although I love to eat food, I have little time or patience for actually preparing it.  I guess that is why all of the meals on my list, are those that were cooked by someone else!

This will be one of the many posts I will have about food.  The following list is meant to get your taste buds watering.  They are not in any particular order, just the order in which I am recalling each feast.

1.  La Quebecoise, La Paz, Bolivia- On a dark, tree-lined street, where each quaint home, building and business has a wraught-iron fence and a bell to ring to be received at the front door.  It was my birthday, 2003, and we decided to try out this homey French Canadian restaurant, found so far away from home.  Regrettably, I don’t remember the exact name of the dish I had, but I remember it resembled cannelloni and was served with fresh baked bread and good wine.  This restaurant is highly recommended for a date night!

2.  Happy Campground, Rome, Italy- Home cooked meals prepared by the family that owns this campground, were served on a porch or at tables set in amidst the greenery.  Between my husband and I we tried most of the pastas on the menu and they were all so flavorful that we didn’t want to eat anywhere else.  Great place to take your kids as menu was mainly pastas and pizzas that they would enjoy.  The campground had a nice pool and provided transportation to the train station into the city.

3.  Forodhani Gardens ( Night Market ), Stonetown, Zanzibar, Tanzania- This is the place that I learned to like seafood.  Every night the fishermen set up food stalls and charcoal grills ready to prepare their catch of the day.  The choices are endless.  I tried crab for the first time, and have never again tasted anything like it.  It was so fresh, and right off the boat.  I also had kebabs of flounder, swordfish and other delicacies of the sea.  I tried the Zanzibari pizza too.  I will put a disclaimer on this that I got sick following this meal, however none of my other 3 traveling companions did, even though we all ate the same thing.  Even though I paid for this meal after the fact, I am still putting it on my list because it was that good!  Oh, and it was also probably the cheapest feast I have ever had.

4.  Freeman’s on the Alley, New York City, USA -  My meal was a chicken dish that is no longer on the menu, however, my husband ordered the ‘Seared Filet Mignon’ which was to die for.  It was so simple, yet so tasty. It came with a whole roasted onion and a large dollop of horseradish cream.  I’m salivating just thinking of it.  It was also reasonably priced for NYC at $24.   We shared the restaurant with Mike Myers where I had to restrain myself from going to his table and reciting ‘Git in ma belly’ or that will cost ‘ One Million Dollars’.  Elijah Wood (Lord of the Rings) was also in the restaurant that evening.

5.  Bha Bha, A Persion Bistro, Naples, Florida- Located in a strip mall but elegantly decorated, this bistro was a delightful surprise!  I went with my family so was able to try a wide variety of fragrant dishes all served over saffron basmati rice.  I would recommend, Shireen Polo with Saffron poached chicken, Duck Fesenjune (a succulent orange braised duck with pomegranate and walnut sauce), and Lamb Bademjune ( done in tomato lemon sauce with eggplants and sour grapes ).  This restaurant was also very accomodating for our baby.

6.  The Press Gang, Halifax, NS, Canada- There are many restaurants in Halifax, I’d like to list but that will have to be a separate post.  For now, I’d like to highlight the Sweet Potato and Blackened Scallop Chowder and Flourless  Chocolate Espresso Cake I enjoyed at this cosy restaurant located in an historic building.

7.  Bar des Imagens/Costa do Castelo, Lisbon, Portugal-  The outdoor patio has spawling views of the city and a casual relaxed atmosphere.  The food was prepared with such care.  Suprisingly my husband daughter and I had the restaurant to ourselves most of the evening as we dined.  I ordered a salad prepared with greens, beets, mixed vegies, goat cheese, garlic and oil.  The main course was a chicken dish and then we splurged on a chocolate dessert that melted in my mouth.  I wish we’d had another night so we could go back there!

I haven’t even started to share my favorite Asian cuisine but I think I’ll leave it at that for now.  I’m craving so many things I’m going to have to sign off, while I go make a snack.  I hope your holidays are filled with good food and good company.  Don’t forget to make a donation to your local food bank so that the less fortunate can also eat well this holiday season.  Bon Appetit!

Christmas at Disney World

When I was ten years old, my parents decided that we would break from our Christmas traditions and go to Florida for the holidays.  It was a great experience for us, so I thought I’d share it, in case there are some parents out there that are considering something like this for next year.

We live in Nova Scotia, Canada, so this was a very different  for us not to have cold weather and snow on Christmas day.  We are also a family that likes their traditions, so we tried to do a modified version of some of our annual Christmas festivities.

Most importantly, I have a younger brother and sister, who were quite concerned that Santa might not find us in Florida but please reassure your children that somehow he did!  I wasn’t too sure what it would be like to have Christmas without a tree, so I had the idea that we should take some lights with us, and I used them to make the outline of a tree on the hotel wall.  We still had stockings and left a snack out for Santa.  On Christmas day, we went to the Magic Kingdom but instead of watching the parade on television we were going to be able to see it in person!  It didn’t take us long to figure out that we could watch the parade next year on t.v. and instead took advantage of the lack of line-ups as we went on Splash Mountain, over and over again.  Everybody else lined the streets to watch the parade.  We always have a turkey dinner on Christmas Day and we were bound and determined that this year should be no different.  We headed over to Epcot center and went to the Canadian Pavilion  and sure enough they were serving turkey dinner :) 

I remember that it was a very festive atmosphere as there were beautiful Christmas decorations everywhere, huge trees and Disney characters that all had special Christmas outfits on.  There were performances all over the parks where carols were being sung and my personal favorite, was that all of the Epcot country pavilions  had something about holiday traditions in their countries.  I think it is a wonderful place to take your children any time of year but Christmas was particularly interesting.  I am all about traveling for cultural experiences with your children, but even the commercialism that is Disney can teach your kids about the world around them.  At the very least, they will have a blast, remember the experience forever and have a great sleep that night!

Photo Friday and Travel Savvy Mom

Today is Photo Friday at Delicious Baby and Jamie at Travel Savvy Mom has graciously offered to post my story “ An Education in Cambodia” to participate in this weekly event.  I am really excited to be getting to know the travel blogging community.  Jamie has provided some helpful tips and there seem to be a lot of resources out there to get me started.  I’ve wanted to start telling my stories and now I’ve finally got my chance!

The adventure that inspired ‘An Education in Cambodia’ was a 2002 trip to Southeast Asia.  At the time we had no children which is strange because now I can’t imagine a time when we didn’t have our little bug ( from now on I’ll refer to her as Bug).  Angkor Wat in Siem Reap was one of the highlights of the trip.  I was enchanted by this lost city and found myself thinking that someday I wanted to bring our children back to see it.  Even in those days, I was always thinking about where I wanted to take my children and what experiences I hoped they’d have.

If you are looking for a unique adventure for your family, I would recommend it but do some research into the current political situation. Over the last few years there has been some instability.  Probably best for children eight and over to truly appreciate the cultural experience, however children of all ages will enjoy the magical atmosphere as they climb up giant stone steps and over ancient tree trunks entwined in the ruins!

The Big Apple with a Medium Sized Stroller

New York City is a great walking city with ample parks and wide sidewalks that are easy to navigate with a stroller.  I traveled there recently with my 8 month old daughter and my mother.  My sister lives in Manhattan, and we plan to visit frequently in the upcoming years so I spent my days there keenly observing other tourists and locals with young children to get some tips for future trips as my daughter grows. 

The first lesson I learned is that a rain cover for your stroller is absolutely essential. I had it on my list to pack but somehow managed to leave it behind.  Of course it rained most of the time we were there!  Every other stroller we passed had one protecting their children from the rain, while I walked around with only blankets covering my child, sheepishly feeling like a negligent mother.  She didn’t get wet or sick (as I’m sure every other mother walking by was thinking) but a clear plastic cover would have still been much better.  Next time, I’ll also prepare for snow because you never know!  Snacks and stroller toys are also essential, although I did find that my daughter was easily amused just watching all the people go by.  Other considerations for your trip include Read more »

Do's and Don'ts for infant travel in Europe

My husband and I recently returned from a trip to Portugal with our seven month old daughter.  We have gone on backpacking adventures all over the world, and were determined that having children was not going to keep us from continuing to travel.  

I chose Portugal because we had enough points to fly to somewhere in Europe from Canada and since I am currently off work on maternity leave we wanted to go somewhere that would be relatively inexpensive once we arrived.  We wanted some relaxation time and some time to explore the country. Portugal seemed to meet all these criteria. 

I was thrilled to find out that the Portuguese love children and our daughter had a steady stream of women and even men stopping to pay her some attention.  The little old ladies would cluck their tongues and rhyme off beautiful sounding sentences in Portuguese. One woman stopped to talk to us while we were waiting for a tram in Lisbon.  She didn’t speak any English, and we didn’t speak Portuguese but we signed our way through a conversation.  She insisted on giving us a euro which we believe she was telling us was for our little girl’s piggy bank.  She wouldn’t take no for an answer.  Our tram driver also kept clucking and smiling at her to the point that we started to worry that he wasn’t really watching the road.

I think many of our friends and family thought we were crazy Read more »